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In Defense of Weird Food A square of sautÔø?ed foie gras, crisscrossed with dark chocolate sauce, seasoned with ground pepper and nutmeg, and accented with bitter orange marmalade, has been a staple of David FÔø?au’s menu at LutÔø?ce since he took over as chef two and a half years ago. It strikes me as a highly awkward clash of flavors, and others have made a similar point, yet Mr. FÔø?au perseveres

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